We were escorted by the proprietor’s shepherd dog (her choice, not ours) up the long winding path toward the upper ridge of the gorge. We met, and cautiously crossed paths with several chained up watch dogs along our route, forcing us to find large weapon like sticks in the event of attack. Mary was happy to employ some of the simple “establish a power role with a strange dog” tricks that she had learned from the Dog whisperer (not terribly effective with these dogs). Later we found out that these guard dogs were situated so as to keep the sheep and goats from wandering away from their owners region. Later that evening Mary and Juliet went into the town of Kissamos and had the chance to hear yet another version of Cretan music, this time a much more contemporary version of the traditional songs.