Our kindly Balinese driver, Made (named for his birth number #2 in a family of four siblings) waited the full three hours for us to emerge from Immigration, we were ever so happy to have this luxury yet again of someone to meet us from our hotel, this time with a sign that said Mary on it. Made told us a bit about Balinese culture as he drove the 90 minute trip to Ubud. Regarding population, Made told us the Indonesian culture is trying to embrace fewer births (stopping at two), but couples continue to keep trying for “the boy”. Now before this sounds too gender biased, remember that in most southeast tribal cultures the male carries on the name and the children belong to the male family clan. Jubie had never been to Bali, but fifteen years ago Mary had spent a month in Ubud and she was struck by the changes she saw in Denpensar city. There were McDonalds, KFC, surf shops and many new malls. Mary wondered if Ubud would also seem so different to her. Upon their arrival in Ubud, Mary was happy to see that town looked very much like she remembered, apart from the fact that now internet cafes were scattered throughout the town. She remembers the single international phone that people would have to line up to call home.